Northern Europe & Baltic Cruise: London, Berlin & Stockholm

Amsterdam has a personality all its own, including a long time reputation for tolerance. You’ll be thinking of tulips and wooden shoes, perhaps Heineken beer, and some of the city’s past inhabitants: Rembrandt, Van Gogh, and Anne Frank, who wrote her famous diary hidden in a canal-side house. But do you know that Amsterdam has more canals than Venice (connecting a jigsaw puzzle of 90 islands), joined by some 1280 bridges (many illuminated by fairy lights at night)? Or that it boasts the oldest stock exchange in the world?

Arriving in Kiel by ship seems appropriate, given its long shipbuilding and naval traditions. In fact today it is one of Germany’s most visited cities, due to an enormously popular annual sailing regatta. This modern and spacious city is strikingly set on the Kiel Fjord, with a charming street of late 19th century buildings at its heart. For a glimpse of historic countryside life, investigate the Schleswig-Holstein Open Air Museum, a collection of rustic farms and country homes dating from the 16th through 19th centuries. Here local craftsmen demonstrate traditional skills in the smithy, potter’s workshop, old loom, and mill, and tantalizing scents arise from the old-fashioned bakery and smoke house.

Warnemunde is a seaside resort neighboring the red brick 800-year-old Hanseatic city of Rostock. From here it is possible to spend the day in Berlin, capital city of a reunited Germany. Its historical core, home to important monuments like the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag building, is part of a revitalized city center, with cafes, restaurants, museums, and galleries. Layered over the Prussian past are WWII, recognized in a Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe; and Cold War relics, including a surviving section of the Berlin Wall and the infamous Checkpoint Charlie.

The island of Bornholm is a far-flung bit of Denmark that appears to have gotten lost in the Baltic Sea between Sweden and Poland. It boasts numerous picturesque fishing villages and 15 medieval churches, some of which are 12th century round structures with unique artwork and architecture. Take a stroll down quiet cobbled lanes in the old part of the capital, Ronne, a garden town, where backyard plots produce flowers and fruit, though they may not be easy to spot behind the fine half-timbered houses. Wednesday is market day on the main square of St. Tory, a great opportunity to chat up the locals, and see what’s on offer at their stalls.

Gdańsk is a 1,000-year-old port city on the Baltic coast of Poland, which, together with the city of Gdynia and the town of Sopot, makes up the metropolitan area Trójmiasto, “the Tricity”. Home to the Westerplatte, where World War II broke out in 1939, Gdańsk was mostly destroyed during the war, but there are still many impressive sights. Wander through cobblestone streets and mazes of red-brick buildings to discover the Upland Gate, St. Mary’s Church, the medieval Gdańsk Crane or the stunning façade of the Great Arsenal. Explore treasures of “Baltic Gold” at the Amber Museum or collections of paintings, fabrics, and furniture at the National Museum, housed in a former Franciscan monastery. Relax at a beer garden or restaurant and take in the beautiful coastline. Make your way to Gdynia, home of the Polish navy, to feast on seafood or a visit to a floating museum in the form of two ships—Dar Pomorza and Blyskawica.

Walk the cobblestoned Old Town in Klaipėda and you’ll see its German heritage in the half-timbered architecture, beginning at Theatre Square where Hitler once spoke. The old warehouses by the Dane River are now pubs and restaurants – try a traditional Lithuanian lunch of fish stew with warm black bread. There’s a museum in the remnants of Memelburg Castle with fascinating photos from WWII, the Blacksmith Museum with intriguing iron works, and the Clock Museum with, well, clocks.

Riga’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, its winding, wobbly lanes are beautiful to wander through. But the most outstanding are the avenues of art nouveau buildings some, with their adornments of femmes fatales and fiendish gargoyles, are so amazing you can’t pass without stopping.

Despite occupation at one time or another by each of its near neighbors, Tallinn is independent-minded and has creative ways of showing it – consider the Singing Revolution of 1988, the massive musical demonstration against Soviet rule that set Estonia on the path to independence. Visit St Olav’s Church, once the tallest building in the world, at least until 1625. Then pull up a chair at one of the cafés in the charming town square, heart of the city for 800 years. After your coffee, explore St. Catherine’s Passage, a quaint old lane, home to a collection of craft workshops, and check out the secret 17th C. tunnel system.

Helsinki is a successful blend of traditional and modern architecture and design, interwoven with the beauty of nature, and a few quirky, purely Finnish touches – such as a church built inside a giant chunk of granite, and a venue that is a unique combination of café, restaurant, bar, laundromat, and sauna. Classic Russian onion-domed churches share the stage with Nordic minimalism, and a large concentration of Art Nouveau buildings. Prominent globally in the fields of technology (think Nokia) and design (Marimekko and Aero), Finland has also recently topped the charts as having the world’s best educational system.

Lively, cosmopolitan Stockholm sports an appealing mix of modern Scandinavian architecture and fairy tale palaces, watched over by a Board of Beauty, responsible for preserving the city. One third of its area is devoted to green space, and another third to waterways, providing lots of room to breathe. Gamla Stan is the oldest section, retaining the medieval layout of narrow meandering paths. For the contemporary take there’s Sodermalm, known trendily as SoFo, with welcoming restaurants and pubs, specialty shops and boutiques. Stieg Larson fans hang out here, as it is the area of the city where most action in the Millennium novels takes place.

Lively, cosmopolitan Stockholm sports an appealing mix of modern Scandinavian architecture and fairy tale palaces, watched over by a Board of Beauty, responsible for preserving the city. One third of its area is devoted to green space, and another third to waterways, providing lots of room to breathe. Gamla Stan is the oldest section, retaining the medieval layout of narrow meandering paths. For the contemporary take there’s Sodermalm, known trendily as SoFo, with welcoming restaurants and pubs, specialty shops and boutiques. Stieg Larson fans hang out here, as it is the area of the city where most action in the Millennium novels takes place.

Copenhagen is known as a city of spires: the skyline of its medieval core is punctuated only by the steeples of churches and towers of palaces, though a modern building boom has overtaken other parts of the city. Today’s Copenhagen is known for its excellent quality of life and environmental consciousness – with many parks, it is green both literally and in today’s sense of the word. It is also bicycle-friendly, with bike paths lining almost every major street. After a ride or wander through the old town, stop for a local repast of Smørrebrød, traditional open-face sandwiches, or a mouthwatering Danish pastry.