Mediterranean Magic

The great period of “the Discoveries” accounted for phenomenal wealth brought back from India, Africa and Brazil by the great Portuguese navigators. Gold, jewels, ivory, porcelain and spices helped finance grand new buildings and impressive monuments in Lisbon, the country’s capital city. As you sail up the Tagus River, be on deck to admire Lisbon’s panorama and see some of the great monuments lining the river. Lisbon is one of Europe’s smallest capital cities but considered by many visitors to be one of the most likeable. Spread over a string of seven hills, the city offers a variety of faces, including a refreshing no-frills simplicity reflected in the people as they go unhurriedly through their day enjoying a hearty and delicious cuisine accompanied by the country’s excellent wines.

Portugal’s southeast coast is a ruggedly beautiful region, crowned by Cape St. Vincent, the southeastern-most point in Europe. At nearby Sagres, Henry the Navigator had his school where the most knowledgeable seamen in the world learned their craft. Standing on the high bluff overlooking the windy sea, one can imagine Columbus staring off to the west, pondering what lay beyond that blue horizon.

Situated just across the narrow Strait of Gibraltar from Europe, Tangier has long comprised a hybrid culture that is nearly as European as it is African. Standing atop Cap Spartel, one can gaze down on the place where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean. The “Hollywood” district where the foreign embassies have traditionally been located reflects the European influence. But ascending the hill above the waterfront, one enters the narrow, winding alleys of the Kasbah, the city’s oldest, most Moroccan section. Down the coast, nearby Tetouan retains a nearly untouched walled medina, with sections originally occupied by Andalusian, Berber and Jewish populations. It is small enough that visitors can explore it without risking becoming lost, making it a perfect choice as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This city of the Mediterranean coast is the second largest on the so-called Costa Tropical. But for us it is the port from which to ascend the slopes of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada to the ethereal Moorish city of Granada and the astounding complex of the Alhambra, the most beautiful display of Islamic architecture in Europe. Dramatically sited overlooking the city, the walled series of halls, courts, gardens and colonnades drip with airy carving and elaborate decorative reliefs that embody the term Arabesque. The sprawling Generalife Gardens adjoining the fortress are a memorable site unto themselves. Elsewhere in Granada, the Capilla Real is a purely Spanish Gothic building, holding the marble tombs of the Reyes Catolicos Ferdinand and Isabella behind a gilded wrought-iron screen.

Founded by Carthaginians in the third century BC, this ancient Mediterranean port city exemplifies the region’s tumultuous history. Romans, Visigoths, Castilians and Moors have all left their marks. Under King Philip II, Cartagena’s naturally deep, sheltered harbor was developed into the nation’s premier naval base, a position it still enjoys today. Ancient ramparts remain, as does a lighthouse erected in Moorish times.

Cannes was founded in the 2nd century BC by a Ligurian tribe, and was subsequently colonized by the Romans in 154 AD. During the town’s entire history it went through a period of upheaval and desolation by war. In 1834, Lord Brougham, an English aristocrat, was so enchanted by Cannes that he decided to settle there. This marked the beginning of the town’s affluence, with luxury residences springing up to provide winter accommodations for international nobility. From 1930 onward, Cannes became a summer resort. Its local economy had traditionally relied on fishing, but was quickly replaced by tourism. Today, Cannes is best known for its world famous film festival and, for two weeks in May each year, attracts the brightest and most talented stars of the silver screen.

The Principality of Monaco is the epitome of Riviera chic. This tiny enclave of 370 acres surrounds a sheltered harbor that draws yachts from around the world to enjoy the beautiful scenery, mild weather and elegant casino. Glamorous Monte Carlo is one of Monaco’s four quarters, which also include La Condamine, the business district; Monaco-ville, the capital; and Fontvieille, an area built on reclaimed land. Ruled by Prince Albert II, Monaco has a population of over 32,000, of which about 16 percent are citizens, or Monégasques.