Hamburg to Reykjavik

A true city of water, effortlessly cool Hamburg is an outward-looking city, with a unique flow of its own. Nestled snugly between the Baltic and North seas, Germany’s second-biggest city is intersected by a frayed network of rivers and canals, spanned by hundreds of pretty bridges. The comparisons are obvious – but Hamburg’s reputation as the ‘Venice of the North’ is a little wide of the mark. View less

This quirky, heritage-filled city has a distinct character and open outlook all of its own, and continues to relish its role as Germany’s gateway to the world. The water brought Hamburg its wealth, and vast redbrick warehouses stack up against the waterfront in the Speicherstadt district – now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They linger from the era when the city was a Hanseatic League trading capital and the warehouses essentially formed a city unto themselves, with goods brought and exchanged from distant shores. Elsewhere, the Reeperbahn is a notorious and unabashed street of nocturnal mischief, with shifty neon-lit nightclubs, in amongst the city’s famous red-light district. Hamburg has a much more wholesome side too, however, and is a powerhouse of museums, theatre and culture. It’s littered with over 100 music venues and the city played a crucial role in The Beatles’ early story. The spectacular Elbphilharmonie concert hall, with its wavy, surrealistic interior, is a work of art in and of itself. The city has been named a European Green Capital, and the vast Lake Alster adds to the airy, pleasant atmosphere, providing a spacious oasis of tranquillity. Planten un Blomen is another burst of zesty colour, where fountains fan out, and lilypads float on rhododendron-lined lakes.

Longyearbyen is the biggest settlement in Svalbard. Seat of the Norwegian administration, it also has the best services and infrastructure in the archipelago. Located deep in the Adventfjord, a sidearm of the Isfjorden (Icefjord), Longyearbyen’s airport can be used all-year round, but its harbor is blocked by ice in winter. Most shops, hotels, restaurants and a hospital are within easy walking distance of the port. One of the most prominent buildings in town is the UNIS center, where several Norwegian universities have joined forces to operate and offer the northernmost higher education to both Norwegian and international students. Adjacent to UNIS, and well worth a visit, is the Svalbard Museum, covering the natural history and exploitation of Svalbard. Remnants of the former mining activity can be seen all around Longyearbyen and even in town.

Longyearbyen is the biggest settlement in Svalbard. Seat of the Norwegian administration, it also has the best services and infrastructure in the archipelago. Located deep in the Adventfjord, a sidearm of the Isfjorden (Icefjord), Longyearbyen’s airport can be used all-year round, but its harbor is blocked by ice in winter. Most shops, hotels, restaurants and a hospital are within easy walking distance of the port. One of the most prominent buildings in town is the UNIS center, where several Norwegian universities have joined forces to operate and offer the northernmost higher education to both Norwegian and international students. Adjacent to UNIS, and well worth a visit, is the Svalbard Museum, covering the natural history and exploitation of Svalbard. Remnants of the former mining activity can be seen all around Longyearbyen and even in town.

Located on the west coast of southern Norway and, with a population of 100,000 the country’s fourth largest city, Stavanger is something of a survivor. While other Norwegian coastal towns have experienced serious decline because of the precarious fortunes of fishing, Stavanger has over the years grown into one of the country’s most dynamic economic power bases, thanks to the creation of a merchant fleet, fish canning, shipbuilding and, more recently, the oil industry. With more than 3,000 foreign oil business people residing here who have made English virtually the first language, Stavanger is often referred to as the “Oil Capital of Norway.” To support the offshore oilfields, the port serves refineries and is also involved in the construction of oil rigs.
Today’s Stavanger is a charming blend of fishing village and modern city, sprinkled with parks, gardens and lakes. The elegant old town with its 12th century cathedral deserves a closer look, and the Canning and Maritime Museums are well worth a visit.
Along the length of the harbor, on Torget, is a small daily market with colorful stands of flowers, fruit and vegetables. Teeming water tanks on the quayside hold a variety of fresh fish. The area around the eastern side of the harbor makes up the town’s shopping district, a bright mix of spidery lanes, pedestrian streets and white-timbered houses that occupy the site of the original settlement of medieval Stavanger.
Outside of town, one can take a trip to the top of Pulpit Rock and other fine lookout points to enjoy the magnificent view. In addition, a worthwhile trip can be made to Utstein Kloster, which was founded in the 13th century and is Norway’s oldest and best preserved abbey.

The crooked, pastel-coloured warehouses of Bergen’s World Heritage waterfront lean together charmingly, welcoming visitors to this city at the heart of Norway’s most extraordinary cinematic landscapes. It may be the country’s second largest city, but the villagey feel here always provides a warm welcome – even when the weather is living up to its famously damp reputation. Bergen’s colourful waterfront, Bryggen, is a ramshackle line-up of incredible Hanseatic warehouses, built following the devastating fire of 1702, which ransacked the city.

These iconic warehouses have stood proudly ever since, with Bergen growing and expanding around the colourful facades. Behind them, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and wooden decking waits, alive with artisan craft shops and bustling galleries. Fløyen mountain watches over the city, and you can take a short but steep hike up to the panoramic viewpoints, or jump on the funicular, which trundles visitors up and down the incline. At the top, spectacular views of Bergen jutting out into the dark seas below unfold before your eyes. Wait until evening to see the sunset painting glorious golden light across the city and waves, and Bergen’s lights flickering into life. Nærøyfjorden, a deeply etched fjord nearby, is perhaps Norway’s most photographed and iconic piece of scenery. A cruise through the base of this spectacular narrow fjord, parting the glass-smooth inky waters, is an utterly humbling experience, as the claustrophobically-close slopes rise imposingly over you. Sognefjord also stretches out nearby, and is Norway’s longest fjord, adorned with plunging waterfalls and vibrant farms during summer.

If we haven’t said it already, Norway’s luxury is its sheer natural beauty. And at the very top of the pile is the all-inclusive Flam, a destination that is home to Glacial waterways lined by evergreen forests amidst jagged mountains and sheer cliff walls. Situated inland, on the arm of the 204-kilometre Sognefjord, the village has just 400 inhabitants. Its little size does not belie its gigantic heart, and Flam’s expansive loveliness knows no bounds.

In fact, UNESCO has dedicated the Sognefjord as a World Heritage Site for its exquisite natural beauty. There are many ways to imbibe in the beauty of this destination. Some of the more peaceful among you will enjoy just drinking it all in from the veranda or deck of your ship, while adrenaline bunnies will most probably want to jump in a Zodiac and gain first-hand experience that way. But beware! Travelling the shores of one of the deepest fjords may be exciting but it is also fast, wet and bumpy! Most visitors will not want to miss out on a one-hour train journey that has been describes by more than one source as being “the world’s most beautiful”. The Flam railway is iconic and will have you holding your breath as your travel through steep, winding roads, around massive mountains, and past gushing rivers and waterfalls. Scary? A little. Picturesque? No question. Worth it? Most definitely.

Nordfjordeid is the administrative centre of the municipality of Stad in Vestland county, western Norway. It is located at the end of the Eidsfjorden, an arm off of the main Nordfjorden, west of the large lake Hornindalsvatnet

Åndalsnes is located at the mouth of the river Rauma, at the shores of the Romsdalsfjord, one of the fjords protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. Famous in the 19th century for salmon fishing, the Rauma flows through the Romsdalen Valley widely considered some of the most breathtaking scenery in all of Norway. Although the river’s salmon stocks are now being replenished, today Andalsnes is better known as a centre of excellenece for Norwegian alpine sports. Mountaineering, climbing, hiking and even base jumping are all readably accessible.

A newly opened Norwegian Mountaineering centre boasts Norway’s highest indoor climbing wall. Some 15 kms out of Andalsnes is the Trollstigen (Troll Road), a mountain road that climbs the pass between the Isterdalen and Valldal valley. It’s one of Norway’s major attractions due to the steep inclines and eleven hairpin bends, only open in the summer months. Equally exciting is a three hour round rail trip from Andalsnes to Dombas on the Rauma Railway line. A feast for the eyes from the comfort of a carriage, mountains, valleys and waterfalls come into sight, as the route follows the Rauma river. Trains thoughtfully slow down at the most photogenic spots. A feat of civil engineering the track passes over countless bridges and through tunnels, the train even performs a 180 degree turn underground. Easily missed, look out at the train station in Andalsnes for a chapel converted from an old red “Intercity Special” railway carriage. The only train chapel in Norway and perhaps the world!

A colourful, historic capital of Norway, Trondheim’s history reaches back to 997 AD, when it was founded by Viking King Olav Tryggvason. It may be Norway’s third-biggest city, but there’s a welcoming and intimate feel here, with a photogenic waterfront, and glowing wooden warehouses adding old-time charm. The history runs deep, but nowadays Trondheim is also a leading technology centre, and home to 30,000 students, who inject youth and vitality into the city’s streets. View less

Museums dedicated to Norway’s musical heritage will strike a sweet chord, while the endless wilds of central Norway and the Trondheim Fjord unveil themselves close by. A destructive fire laid to rest to old Trondheim’s narrow wooden alleyways, but a flavour of the old city survives in the Bakklandet neighbourhood. Traditional timber houses and colourful wharves line up along the waterfront, painting a pretty picture with pistachio-green and turmeric-yellow licks of paint. Vibrating cyclists rattle along the cobbled old streets, while flowers spill down from window ledges in this quaint, but lively area of cafes, restaurants and curiosity shops. Head to the Old Town bridge – Gamle Bybro – to enjoy the colourful lines of houses on both sides of the river, on your way to the gothic Nidaros Cathedral, which towers above the city, with its pointed, emerald-green spire punctuating the sky. The most northerly Gothic cathedral in Europe, aim to visit during one of the organ performances that rattle the beautiful stain-glass windows. Built on the burial site of King Olaf, in 1070, you can test your knees by taking on the narrow ascent of the tower, where glorious views of Trondheim await. Take in the beauty of the city with a trundling tour aboard the most northerly tram in the world – Gråkallbanen.

Feel your heart flutter, as you catch your first glimpse of that famous emerald haze dancing across the stars, during your visit to this wonderful Arctic gateway. Located in the far north of Norway, a visit to Tromso beckons you to the extremes of this magical country, to explore a fairytale land of jagged mountains, glistening glaciers and husky-pulled sledges. Despite its remote location, you’ll discover a perhaps surprisingly cosmopolitan city, with a healthy student population injecting plenty of energy. View less

Sat 250 miles above the Arctic Circle – at 69° north – you can bathe in the midnight sun’s glow during summer, before winter brings the thick blackness and starry skies of endless polar nights. The darkness doesn’t stop the fun – with a polar night half-marathon taking place in January – but the return of the sun is always a reason for a celebration here. To get the best view over the city, take the cable car to Storsteinen’s amazing viewpoint. Magnificent views down over the city, fjord and Tromso’s arching bridge will unravel before you. Learn more about northerly traditions, polar expeditions and arctic hunting at the Polar Museum. The Science Centre, meanwhile, explains how humans have harnessed and survived these epic landscapes over the years, and explores Tromso’s breathtaking natural spectacle – the northern lights. The city is famed for its extraordinary viewing opportunities, which are often said to be the best in the world. The Alpine Botanic Garden is the most northern such garden on the planet, showcasing some of Norway’s hardiest plantlife, which survives and thrives at this nose-bleeding altitude.

Feel your heart flutter, as you catch your first glimpse of that famous emerald haze dancing across the stars, during your visit to this wonderful Arctic gateway. Located in the far north of Norway, a visit to Tromso beckons you to the extremes of this magical country, to explore a fairytale land of jagged mountains, glistening glaciers and husky-pulled sledges. Despite its remote location, you’ll discover a perhaps surprisingly cosmopolitan city, with a healthy student population injecting plenty of energy. View less

Sat 250 miles above the Arctic Circle – at 69° north – you can bathe in the midnight sun’s glow during summer, before winter brings the thick blackness and starry skies of endless polar nights. The darkness doesn’t stop the fun – with a polar night half-marathon taking place in January – but the return of the sun is always a reason for a celebration here. To get the best view over the city, take the cable car to Storsteinen’s amazing viewpoint. Magnificent views down over the city, fjord and Tromso’s arching bridge will unravel before you. Learn more about northerly traditions, polar expeditions and arctic hunting at the Polar Museum. The Science Centre, meanwhile, explains how humans have harnessed and survived these epic landscapes over the years, and explores Tromso’s breathtaking natural spectacle – the northern lights. The city is famed for its extraordinary viewing opportunities, which are often said to be the best in the world. The Alpine Botanic Garden is the most northern such garden on the planet, showcasing some of Norway’s hardiest plantlife, which survives and thrives at this nose-bleeding altitude.

Slap bang in the middle of Norway’s fjords, islands and northern wonders, Narvik, is an ideal base from which to explore this magical region. A city since 1902, it sits on the coast of Ofotfjorden inside the Arctic circle. This northerly latitude means Narvik bathes in the midnight sun during summer’s months and is witness to the dazzling displays of the northern lights, which enchant as they spill across the stars. View less

Crisp, clear skies make Narvik a prime destination for northern lights viewing, and the natural setting of spiky mountains and soaring fjords generates a truly glorious spectacle amid incredible staging. Gondolas sway up to the slopes of Narvikfjellet ski resort, which can tempt with fantastic skiing, but also provides a prime spot for views of the lights flashing above. Look out over the vast panorama of the town curving along the fjord’s banks, the Fagernesfjellet mountain, and – hopefully – the emerald spread of the natural light display. Polar Park Arctic Wildlife Centre grants Norway’s wildest animals – including wolves, bears and lynx – with a protected haven. Elsewhere, a vast railway, which once transported iron ore to the Swedish border, now provides a dramatic rumble through the best of Norway’s mountain scenery and is one of the country’s most mesmerising rail journeys. Narvik was heavily affected by the Second World War, and the city’s museum explains north Norway’s strategic importance and explores the German occupation here, as well as the decisive battle for the city’s liberation.

Leknes (Gravdal) is a village in Vestvågøy municipality in the county of Nordland, located on Vestvågøy island which is part of the Lofoten Archipelago in northern Norway (north of the Arctic Circle). Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten which is not based upon fisheries and which does not have its town centre by the sea. Because of this, and because of its rapid growth in recent years, it does not have the same traditional wooden architecture as most other towns in Lofoten, and may thus not be regarded to be as picturesque as its neighbouring fishing villages. However, the natural surroundings are regarded to be among the most stunning in Norway, with mountains, peaks, cliffs and white sandy beaches. The town’s harbour Leknes Havn is one of Norway’s most important and visited harbours for cruise ships.

Witness Norway at its awe-inspiring best, while exploring one of the world’s most beautiful fjords. Geiranger nestles at the end of the majestic Geiranger fjord, itself a branch of the Storfjorden, the Great Fjord. While only 300 hardy souls live in the village when winter is biting, Geiranger’s population swells exponentially in the summertime, when the village becomes one of Norway’s most visited locations – providing a welcoming base for visitors coming to revel in the fantasy fjord’s glory. View less

Sweeping horseshoe bends unveil the full majesty of Geiranger fjord, one of two Norwegian fjords singled out for UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Soak it all in, as you sail the ten-mile stretch of glorious scenery, decorated with cascading flows of water. The Seven Sisters is perhaps the most celebrated – sprawling down 250 metres like a flowing head of silvery hair. Look out across from these seven flows to the bottle-shaped waterfall known as The Suitor – legend says he tries eternally, to win the affections of the Seven Sisters opposite. Sail onwards, and you can feel the fresh spray on your face, up close and personal to another spectacular flow – Bridal Veil Waterfall. Geiranger’s fjord’s banks are decorated with abandoned farms, including Knivsflå, and Skageflå. Or you can experience life on a working cheese farm at Herdalssetra. Winding hairpin mountain roads offer some of Europe’s highest fjord views, while the Dalsnibba mountain – which stands close to the fjord – offers spine-tingling views from an epic 1,500-metre high pedestal. Get as close to the edge as you dare, and let this one-of-a-kind landscape of snow-capped mountain peaks and wide fjords utterly overwhelm you.

Decorative turrets, pastel-coloured paint and elegant buildings reflect in the glass-smooth harbour waters of Ålesund, welcoming you to one of the world’s finest havens of Art Nouveau architecture. A perfect complement of natural and man-made beauty, the city’s distinctive jugendstil style is enhanced by a thrilling location amid colossal fjord scenery. Geirangerfjord World Heritage Site of is one of Norway’s most spectacular fjords, and it comes alive in summer with gushing meltwater falls plummeting from steep banks to pristine water below. View less

Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful towns in Norway, practically every building in Ålesund boasts fantastical flourishes and eccentric quirks. Rebuilt from the ashes of the devastating fire that swept through in 1904, the town is now a unique historic treasure trove. Wander fairy-tale cobbled streets, and admire endless dainty turrets and decorative swirls, before reaching the Aksla Viewpoint and letting the true majesty of the town’s dreamlike setting wash over you, while gazing over its archipelago. Enjoy a sugar-kick with a bite of folded svele – an indulgent, buttery Norwegian pancake – or settle in to a cosy restaurant for something a little more substantial. Ålesundis a town built on sea trade, and a regular haul of fjord cod is brought ashore before being distributed right across the world. Dried, salted cod – known as klipfish – is a particular speciality, with Ålesund producing an incredible two thirds of the world’s supply.

Seydisfjordur,, a beautiful 19th-century Norwegian village on the east coast of Iceland, is regarded by many as one of Iceland’s most picturesque towns, not only due to its impressive environment, but also because nowhere in Iceland has a community of old wooden buildings been preserved so well as here. Poet Matthías Johannessen called Seydisfjordur a ‘pearl enclosed in a shell’.

There’s simply nowhere better than Husavilk – the European capital of whale watching – for getting up close and personal with the majestic giants of the ocean. Feel the awe as whales breach the waves around you, before gulping in air and plunging away with almighty tale flicks. Pretty Husavik is framed by the majestic Húsavíkurfjall mountain, which swells up behind, creating a stunning backdrop for the town’s tiny wooden warehouses, cherry red houses and undulating fishing ships. View less

The little wooden church has been a beacon of light, guiding tired fishermen back to the shores of Iceland’s oldest settlement, since 1907. Let the wind rip through your hair and the sea speckle your face, as you ride waves out among the region’s almighty marine creatures, who throw their weight around so spectacularly. Sail among gentle giants in Shaky Bay, spotting humpbacks, minke whales and the world’s biggest – blue whales. You may also see teams of smaller white-beaked dolphins skipping across the waves, displaying the full range of acrobatic skills. The town’s whale museum is an interesting journey through Iceland’s relationship with the sea giants, while its restaurants serve up local specialities – taste juicy reindeer burger and plokkfiskur, a buttery mash of local fish. Hikes and horseback rides into the surrounding countryside can take you up around Lake Botnsvatn, to views down from the slopes of the Húsavíkurfjall – where purple spired lupin flowers spill down amongst the emerald slopes. From the summit, look out over views of the bay, reaching out to the crumpled snowy peaks beyond. Or feel the full force of this land of natural power, at Dettifloss Waterfall, one of Europe’s most powerful, thrashing flumes.

Iceland’s Capital of the North is the gateway to a thrilling land of roaring waterfalls, soaring volcanoes and glorious wildlife. It may lie a mere 60 miles from the Arctic Circle, but Akureyi blossoms with a bright, cosmopolitan feel, and explodes into life during the summer months, when its outdoor cafes and open-air bathing spots fill up with visitors ready to immerse themselves in Iceland’s cinematic scenery. Feel the thundering impact of Iceland’s celebrated natural wonders shaking your bones at Godafoss Waterfalls, known as the ‘Waterfalls of the Gods’.

Here, the Skjálfandafljót river unleashes a colossal torrent of water over charcoal-black rocks below. Or, find some peace at the Botanical Gardens, which opened in 1957 and offer space for contemplation – amid plants that bloom with unexpected vibrancy, even at this northerly latitude. The Lutheran, Akureyrarkirkja Church rises like a grand church organ and is the town’s most striking landmark. The 112-step climb is worth the effort to see light flooding in through its narrow stain glass windows, spreading colourful patchworks across the interior. Magic and mythology are important elements of Icelandic folklore, and you’ll even bump into giant sculptures of grizzled, child-snatching trolls on the town’s high street. Or, meet more earthly – but no less magical – creatures in the waters around Akureyi, where immense blue whales cruise by and dolphins playfully leap. A trip to the northerly Grimsey island will take you on an inspiring adventure traversing the Arctic Circle to a remote island where flame-beaked puffins nod on cliff-side perches and razorbills nest. Brush up on your puffin-watching skills with our blog.

A tiny town in the scenic north of Iceland, cosseted away by a jagged wall of mountain peaks, Siglufjordur is an isolated gem. With just over a thousand residents, Siglufjordur takes its name from the glassy fjord that stretches out nearby. Iceland’s northernmost town, only a single-lane road tunnel, bored through the snow-capped mountains, provides a land link with the rest of the country. This evocative remoteness appealed to dark Nordic Noir writers – and the town has found recent fame as the star of the TV show Trapped. View less

A much warmer welcome awaits you in real life than in fiction – fortunately. Siglufjordur is a historic Atlantic capital of herring fishing, and you can learn of the industry that gave the town its raison d’etre, and powered Iceland’s economy at the award-winning Herring Era Museum. The biggest maritime-themed museum in Iceland, it spreads across three buildings and covers every element of the town’s relationship with its fishing waters – from expedition to preparation and preservation. While the industry has dried up since its heyday, wander to the harbour for views of the pretty town’s cherry and lemon coloured former warehouses. Swirling seagulls look for offcuts, while fishermen sandpaper and varnish tiny vessels. Take a boat out around the scenic fjord, or embark on lengthy hikes out and above this romantically isolated outpost. The sounds of beautiful duo vocal harmonies and accordions are often heard echoing along the streets, and the Folk Music Museum is an enchanting look into quaint, rural Icelandic culture. The Folk Music Festival causes the town’s population to swell dramatically, as visitors make for these picturesque shores to play and perform each year.

Sitting in the finger-like scenery of the Westfjords – which flays out from the mainland to form one of Europe’s most westerly points, Patreksfjordur has barely 700 inhabitants and – like so many Icelandic communities – is built on time-tested fishing traditions. Discover wonderful crowds of birdlife clinging to the dramatic cliffs, as you embark on adventures amid the Westfjords, discovering flat-topped mountains, cutting inlets and evocative, windswept beaches. View less

With their bright beaks and amiable features, puffins are some of the most beautiful birds in the world – and they nest in huge quantities on Látrabjarg cliff, close to Patreksfjordur. Vertically steep and imposing, the birds are safe from predators like foxes here, as they live and breed on the dramatically steep drop-offs. Wander to see them thriving in their natural habitat, clinging to cliff ledges. You can also encounter gannets and guillemots, as well as an estimated 40% of the world’s Razorbill population. Rauðasandur beach is one of Iceland’s more unusual sights, a huge copper-red stretch of sand. Wander the dreamy shoreline, and photograph the remote, colourful collision of sea and sand. You’re also close to the majestic veil of Dynjandi waterfall, which fans out across 60 metres as it descends. After a tough day’s hiking, return to Patreksfjordur to admire fjord views and soak your muscles in an outdoor pool, as the stars begin to appear above. Or head to the muscle-relieving, naturally-heated, geothermal pools that murmur nearby.

The fire, frost and water symbolized by the red, white and blue of Iceland’s flag are manifested by the ice and snow of its glaciers, the hot mud pools, geysers and glowing lava flows in the country’s volcanic regions.
The island’s settlement dates back to 874 when a Norwegian named Ingolf Arnarson arrived at present-day Reykjavik. In 930, the settlers formed a legislature, the Alting, which was the beginning of the Commonwealth of Iceland. From the 10th to the 14th centuries, Iceland developed a literary form, the Icelandic Saga, which spread throughout the Nordic culture and into the English and German languages. It was used to spin stories of the gods, record historic events and glorify heroes.

As Iceland’s capital and main center of the country’s population, the city of Reykjavik is a fascinating blend of the traditional and modernism. Just as Iceland is a unique country – rugged and remote, yet technically advanced and enjoying Nordic standards of affluence – Reykjavik is a highly unusual capital city. It dominates the life of Iceland in almost every way. More than half of the country’s total population of 270,000 is living in and around the capital, and the economy of the entire nation depends on Reykjavik. Nearly 60 percent of Iceland’s imports are received and distributed, and 40 percent of the country’s exports are loaded for shipment via the port of Reykjavik. It is also the headquarters of what is probably the world’s most advanced seafood industry, which counts for Iceland’s number one export.