Riviera Gems

The Principality of Monaco is the epitome of Riviera chic. This tiny enclave of 370 acres surrounds a sheltered harbor that draws yachts from around the world to enjoy the beautiful scenery, mild weather and elegant casino. Glamorous Monte Carlo is one of Monaco’s four quarters, which also include La Condamine, the business district; Monaco-ville, the capital; and Fontvieille, an area built on reclaimed land. Ruled by Prince Albert II, Monaco has a population of over 32,000, of which about 16 percent are citizens, or Monégasques.

Despite its small size, the island of Elba has been known since the beginning of recorded history. Called Ilva by the Ligurians and Aethalia by the Greeks, Elba passed to the Etruscans and later the Romans. It was ruled by Pisa in the Middle Ages, was a haven for Barbary pirates in the 16th century and then privately owned by the powerful Medici family. The island’s most famous resident was Napoleon Bonaparte, whose first exile from France and short reign over Elba lasted from May 1814 to February 1815. During that time, Napoleon was able to improve the island by altering street plans, building new roads, modernizing agriculture and developing the iron mines.
Iron ore is still mined above the Rio Marina and then shipped from Portoferraio (Port of Iron). With a population of just over 11,000, the town is the largest of the eight on the island and is considered its capital. Geologists and gem stone collectors find Elba a treasure trove with over 150 minerals and semiprecious stones found here due to the seismic turmoil that created the island. The rich soil also produces an astonishing range of foliage and flowers aided by sun that shines almost every day of the year. Despite summer tourism, the island is largely agricultural and the ambience is quiet and relaxed, allowing the visitor to enjoy Elba’s natural charm, peaceful abundance and timeless beauty.

The Gulf of La Spezia has been so frequent a subject for poets over the years – from Dante and Petrarch to Byron and Shelley – that it is often referred to as the Golfo dei Poeti. The elongated yellow and orange houses, which line the harbor stretch up the steep slope toward ancient battlements beyond. Mentioned as a landing place in Claudius Ptolemy’s “General Geography” (150 AD), today Portovenere is a resort with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

In 350 BCE Greeks from Marseilles founded Nice in honor of the goddess of victory, Nike. The Romans showed little interest in this town sheltered by an amphitheater of hills. In 1388 it was incorporated into the Duchy of Savoy, then united with Sardinia, passed to France in 1712, passed back to Sardinia in 1814, and finally returned to France in 1860.

Today, Nice as it is now known, enjoys a popularity which stems from its charming setting, artistic treasures, wonderful climate and innumerable attractions.

Marseilles, France’s second-largest city after Paris, is an exciting, cosmopolitan port comprised of some sixteen distinct arrondissements, or neighborhoods. A large Algerian contingent calls the city home, adding its own inimitable accent. Much of the city’s oldest section, Le Panier, was destroyed by German troops during World War II, sparing only three fine old edifices, including Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Two fortresses, St.-Jean and St.-Nicolas, guard the harbor entrance, while Marseilles’s oldest church, Basilique St.-Victor, is virtually a fortress as well. This is a fine city for touring on foot, with sufficient cafes to provide refreshments along the way.

Marseilles, France’s second-largest city after Paris, is an exciting, cosmopolitan port comprised of some sixteen distinct arrondissements, or neighborhoods. A large Algerian contingent calls the city home, adding its own inimitable accent. Much of the city’s oldest section, Le Panier, was destroyed by German troops during World War II, sparing only three fine old edifices, including Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Two fortresses, St.-Jean and St.-Nicolas, guard the harbor entrance, while Marseilles’s oldest church, Basilique St.-Victor, is virtually a fortress as well. This is a fine city for touring on foot, with sufficient cafes to provide refreshments along the way.

The port town of Sete hugs the tiny Mont St. Clair, and is caught between the Mediterranean and the Bassin de Thau, a salt lake directly behind it. It is crisscrossed by numerous canals which link the lake to the sea, and connected by 12 bridges. Along the quay, renovated buildings provide a multitude of architectural details from the 18th and 19th centuries. The life of the town is found in its squares: Place Leon Blum, with its fountain and Wednesday morning flower market; Place Aristide, with its old fashioned bandstand; and Place de la Republique, with its huge retaining walls and vaulted loggias. Sete retains its historic purpose as a fishing boat haven for North African trade; the old harbor dates from the time of Louis XIV.

Founded by Greeks in the pre-Christian era, the Catalan town is set on a lovely curve of beaches on Spain’s Costa Brava. It is crowned by the Castell de la Trinitat, which anchored the wall that encircled the entire town in medieval times. It was the site, until 2011, of Ferran Adria’s Michelin three-star restaurant El Bulli, which will reportedly reopen in 2014 as a culinary creativity center. Shop for a souvenir from the back of a street hawker’s donkey, or wander to nearby Figueres or Cadaques to visit one of Salvador Dali’s museums.

Located at the foot of the mountains on Spain’s rugged Costa Brava, Palamos boasts seven superb beaches, Iberian archeological remains from the year 6 BC, and the Church of Sant Esteve on the beach. Highlighting the town center is its 16th-century cathedral.

Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians, and was once the rival of the powerful states of Venice and Genoa for control of the Mediterranean trade. Today, it is Spain’s second largest city and has long rivaled, even surpassed Madrid in industry and commerce. The medieval atmosphere of the Gothic Quarter and the elegant boulevards combine to make the city one of Europe’s most beautiful. Barcelona’s active cultural life and heritage brought forth such greats as the architect Antonio Gaudi, the painter Joan Miro, and Pablo Picasso, who spent his formative years here. Other famous native Catalan artists include cellist Pau Casals, surrealist Salvador Dali, and opera singers Montserrat Caballe and Josep Carreras. Barcelona accomplished a long-cherished goal with the opportunity to host the Olympics in 1992. This big event prompted a massive building program and created a focal point of the world’s attention.